If you live in a storm-prone area, you’ve probably Googled this exact question: How do I choose a hurricane impact window? There’s a lot of jargon out there, codes, NOAs, DP ratings, and interlayers, and it’s easy to feel lost. The good news: once you know what truly matters, choosing the best hurricane impact window becomes a simple, step-by-step decision.
This guide breaks the process into plain English. You’ll learn which approvals to look for, how to match a window’s strength to your home’s wind zone, what the glass and frame options mean, and the smart extras worth paying for (and which ones aren’t).
Step 1: Start with code compliance (it’s your non-negotiable)
Impact windows should pass specific, nationally recognized tests. The two you’ll see most often are ASTM E1886 (how products are tested for impact and cyclic pressure) and ASTM E1996 (the specification that defines the missile sizes, impact points, and pressure cycling). Together, they simulate wind-borne debris hits and the suction/push of hurricane gusts, so the glass stays in the frame and your envelope isn’t breached.
If you’re in South Florida’s HVHZ (High Velocity Hurricane Zone), specifically Miami-Dade and Broward Counties, your windows must meet tougher local rules and typically need a Miami-Dade Notice of Acceptance (NOA). Elsewhere in Florida, many jurisdictions accept Florida Product Approval; in HVHZ, Miami-Dade NOAs are the gold standard and widely recognized outside the region, too.
Not in HVHZ but still near the coast or in a hurricane-prone region? You’re likely within a wind-borne debris region, which still requires approved opening protection that meets the ASTM standards above. The 2023 Florida Building Code and ASCE 7-22 refined these regions, and many inland areas now qualify, so don’t assume you’re exempt. Check with your local building department or a licensed contractor.
Before you shop for styles or colors, confirm the product has the right approval (state and/or county) for your address.
Step 2: Understand the tests behind the label
When you dig into technical sheets or NOAs, you’ll see references to TAS 201, 202, and 203. In HVHZ testing:
- TAS 201 is the impact test, typically using a 9-lb 2×4 “missile” fired at the glass at a set speed.
- TAS 202 checks air, water, and structural performance (think leaks and racking under wind).
- TAS 203 is the cyclic pressure test that simulates repeated gusts after the impact.
Those labels tell you a window wasn’t just strong once; it held up through impact and thousands of pressure cycles, which is what keeps your home dry and intact when winds roar for hours.
Step 3: Match the window strength to your home (DP & size matter)
Every impact window has a Design Pressure (DP) rating—a measure of how much wind pressure it can handle (in pounds per square foot). Your home’s required DP depends on location, exposure (open water vs. neighborhood), height, and window size. Oversized openings and mulled units often need higher ratings. Your contractor or engineer should size and select products so that the tested ratings meet or exceed your project’s required pressures.
Also look for the window’s water penetration rating (how well it resists wind-driven rain). In coastal storms, water resistance is as important as strength because leaks can damage interiors long before anything breaks. TAS 202 is your clue that air/water/structural performance was verified.
Step 4: Choose the right glass package
impact windows use laminated glass—two panes bonded by a clear interlayer—so if the glass cracks under impact, it stays together instead of shattering. The interlayer is the secret to that durability. Most residential products use PVB (polyvinyl butyral), a flexible, proven material that’s widely adopted.
For larger spans or very high design pressures, many manufacturers specify SGP (an ionoplast interlayer). It’s stiffer than PVB, helps the glass hold its shape under load, and is common on big picture windows and storefront-style designs.
For better energy performance, many coastal homes pair laminated glass with an insulating glass unit (IGU): a laminated pane, an air or gas-filled spacer, and a second pane. If you want more comfort year-round, add a low-E coating, a microscopically thin layer that reflects heat, to reduce solar gain in summer and heat loss in winter.
To compare energy performance, use the NFRC label. For hot, sunny climates, aim for a low SHGC (blocks solar heat gain) and a low U-factor (resists heat flow). The NFRC program rates the entire unit (frame + glass), which is more realistic than glass-only numbers.
Step 5: Pick a frame that fits your climate and goals
- Aluminum: Strong, slim sightlines, handles big openings well. Thermal breaks and quality low-E glass help with heat transfer. Great for coastal markets where structure and durability come first.
- Vinyl: Better insulator, budget-friendly, and low maintenance. Modern vinyl impact products perform well when properly reinforced, but profiles are usually bulkier.
- Fiberglass: Stable, strong, and a good thermal performer. Often priced between premium vinyl and aluminum.
No matter the frame, hardware and fasteners must be corrosion-resistant—especially within a few miles of saltwater. Ask about stainless steel (many coastal specs prefer 316), robust locks, and continuous hinges for doors. Strong hardware keeps windows shutting tight when pressures spike.
Step 6: Operation and style (form should follow function)
- Fixed (picture) windows give you the best structural ratings and the cleanest look.
- Casements/awnings lock on multiple sides and seal tightly, often achieving higher pressures than sliders.
- Single-hung/sliders are popular, easy to use, and priced well.
- Entry and patio doors must meet impact and water standards, too—check their separate approvals.
Match egress needs in bedrooms, think about prevailing breezes, and plan ventilation where you actually want to open the window during shoulder seasons.
Step 7: Don’t skip the paperwork—approvals & documentation
Ask your dealer/installer for the product’s Florida Product Approval listing or Miami-Dade NOA. Keep copies with your records; inspectors often ask for them, and insurers may request proof to qualify you for wind-mitigation credits. Miami-Dade’s Product Control database is publicly searchable if you want to verify a model and series number yourself.
Step 8: Consider insurance savings (they can be meaningful)
Florida law encourages insurers to offer discounts for wind-mitigation features like approved opening protection. If you’re upgrading an older home, impact windows and doors can help you qualify—sometimes offsetting a chunk of the project cost over time. Talk to your carrier before you buy, and line up a post-install wind-mit inspection.
Step 9: Installation quality is half the battle
A great window installed poorly won’t perform. Insist on:
- Licensed, experienced crews who regularly install impact systems.
- Proper anchorage into structure (not just sheathing) using the fasteners and patterns shown in the approval.
- Flashing and sealants rated for your climate, and careful integration with the weather barrier.
- Permits and inspections. Cutting corners here puts your approvals and insurance credits at risk.
If your openings are oversized or combined with mullions, demand shop drawings or details that show how your specific configuration meets the tested setup.
Step 10: Budget, lead times, and warranties
Impact windows are an investment. Aluminum frames, larger sizes, laminated IGUs, and premium finishes raise cost but often deliver better performance and longevity. Ask for:
- Lead times (they can vary seasonally).
- Warranty specifics on frames, glass, hardware, and finish.
- Service expectations—who handles adjustments, leaks, or hardware replacements?
A slightly higher upfront cost from a well-reviewed manufacturer and a proven installer usually pays you back in fewer headaches.
FAQ: Quick Answers to Common Questions
Do I still need shutters if I have impact windows?
In most jurisdictions, properly approved impact windows replace the need for shutters. Your local code and your approvals determine this, so verify during permitting.
Will laminated glass help with noise?
Yes. The interlayer damps vibration, which usually lowers outside noise compared to a standard double-pane. The improvement varies by glass build—ask about STC/OITC ratings for an apples-to-apples comparison.
What’s the difference between “impact-resistant” and “hurricane-rated”?
Marketing terms vary, but the proof is in the approvals and test standards listed on the label. Look for ASTM E1886/E1996, and in HVHZ, TAS 201/202/203 with a current NOA.
Ready to Compare Options With an Expert?
Windows Solutions Group, LLC makes the process easy, from code check and product selection to clean, permitted installation. If you’re asking, “How do I choose a hurricane impact window?” or you’re ready to start choosing the best hurricane impact window for your home, we’ll walk you through approvals, energy choices, and budgets, no guesswork.
Get a free, no-pressure consult today: Contact us for a free quote for coastal-ready impact windows and doors, installed right the first time.
